| HOME INSPECTION
CHECKLIST |
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When buying a house, it is wise
to make your offer conditional upon inspection by a qualified home inspector. That way, if
something serious turns up, you can get out of the purchase or renegotiate the offer.
You can also do your own pre-inspection to eliminate some houses or prepare for an
offer. You don't have to be an expert to spot most defects. This checklist will guide you
through a basic pre-inspection. It is not a replacement for a professional home
inspection. Some categories - such as electric, heating, and plumbing - are limited to
those things that the average person can inspect himself or herself
Print as many copies as you need.
Home Inspection Checklist
Address:
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Contact:
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Exterior
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Your Notes
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Grade
The yard should slope gradually from the house to drain water away. If a hill slopes
toward the house, there should be a swale - a shallow runoff trench - to collect and drain
water before it reaches the house. |
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Driveway
The driveway should be approximately five-centimeters (two-inches) below the garage
entrance. It should slope away from the garage. If it slopes toward the garage, a drainage
well should run across the width of the entrance to collect water and prevent it from
draining into the garage.
There should be no potholes, heaving, large cracks, missing paver stones, or excessive
weed growth. |
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Foundation
Usually made of poured concrete, concrete block, or - on older houses - stone. The
foundation should be free of cracks, crumbling, water stains, and signs of dampness (moss
and mildew growth). Plantings should be at least one-meter (three-feet) away from the
foundation. The top of the foundation should be at least 20-centimeters (eight-inches)
above grade to keep the wooden sill away from contact with the ground. |
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Roof and Chimney (for safety, view the
roof from the ground with binoculars)
The rooflines should appear straight, with no sagging. There should be roof vents,
preferably as close to the ridge as possible.
Shingles should lie flat with no missing ones, no worn areas, no lifted corners, no
moss growth, and no bending over the roof edge. They should extend over the roof edge and
the edge of the fascia board in order to direct water into the eavestrough. (Flat roofs
cannot be inspected from the ground. Leave them to a professional).
The top of the chimney should be at least one-meter (three-feet) above the peak of the
roof or at 3.5-meters (10-feet) away from higher roof sections. There should be no cracked
or missing bricks, stone, or mortar. |
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| Eavestroughs and Downspouts Eavestroughs
should be securely fastened and free of cracks or joint gaps. Downspouts should direct
water away from the house, walks, and driveways. |
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Windows and Doors
Windows and exterior doors should fit well and should open smoothly. Locks, hinges, and
other hardware should fit well and be in proper working order. Caulking and weather
stripping should not be cracked, worn, or missing. There should be no broken glass or torn
screens, and no damaged or rotted trim. In colder climates, windows should be double or
triple-glazed. Older, single-glazed windows should have storm windows. Exterior doors
should be solid - never hollow core - and built either of wood or insulated steel. |
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Garage
An attached garage must be gas and fireproofed. There cannot be any
openings that will let exhaust into the house. The walls should be sheeted with
non-combustible material such as gypsum board. A door from the garage to the house must be fireproof (usually steel), have an
automatic closer, and gaskets to seal the door when closed.
If the garage floor is a concrete slab, it should not have any significant cracks or
appear to have settled.
The garage door should open and close smoothly. If it has an automatic opener, test it.
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Interior
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Your Notes
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| Basement Walls and floors should not have cracks or
any signs of leaks; (look for water marks and smell for mustiness). The floor should
slightly slope toward floor drains; (test by rolling a marble). In unfinished basements,
check the wooden sill (where it rests on top of the foundation) for signs of rot or insect
damage. Test its soundness by jabbing it with a screwdriver or spike. Floor joists can be
tested the same way. Also look for sagging joists. |
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| Plumbing Flush toilets and turn on faucets to check
water pressure. Toilets should not run on or clog. Check for signs of leaking where toilet
rests on floor. Taps should not drip and sinks should drain freely. Check the condition of
caulking around tubs and check shower tile for gaps and cracks.
Note the water heater's capacity and its fuel, (oil, gas, electric). Check for an
installation tag (usually attached to a fuel line or water line) to determine the heater's
age. |
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| Heating and Air Conditioning Note the kind of
heating system (forced air furnace, hot water radiator, electric, etc.). Turn it on, set
the thermostat and note how quickly it comes up to temperature. Look at the general
condition of the furnace or boiler. Check its age by looking for an installation tag
(usually attached to a fuel line. Fuel burning furnaces and stoves should vent to the
outside and have their own fresh air intakes.
Turn on central air conditioning and note how long it takes to get to temperature. |
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| Electrical All lights and fixtures should turn on.
To test that plug outlets are properly wired and grounded, use an outlet tester (also
called a receptacle tester). They are inexpensive and available from almost any hardware
store. |
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| Walls, ceilings, and trim There should be no cracks,
holes, or gouges. Plaster should not be crumbling or cracked. Drywall should be smooth and
free of seams or popped nails. Baseboards, crown molding, door and other molding should be
well fitted with mitered corners. |
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| Floors There should be no excessive creaking when
the floor is walked on; (a bit of creak is acceptable). Note the overall condition of the
flooring. It should not be obviously worn. Ceramic tiles should be evenly laid and free of
cracks or damaged grout. Vinyl tiles should be evenly laid with no gaps between them.
Carpet must be drawn tight and the seams should match. Hardwood should be free of gouges,
gaps, and visible nail heads. |
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| Doors Doors should be well fitted. They should open
and close smoothly on their hinges and not scrape along the floor. Doorknobs and locks
should be well fitted. Doorstops should be in place. Sliding doors should run smoothly on
tracks - they should not stick or scrape. |
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| Cabinets and Countertops Cabinets should be sturdy,
properly aligned, and securely fastened to the wall. Doors and drawers should operate
smoothly and be free of damage. Countertops should be free of significant scratches,
gouges, or other damage. |
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| Ventilation The kitchen and bathrooms should have
proper ventilation. Turn on vents to check that they operate without rattling or whining.
In the laundry room, the clothes dryer should exhaust to the outside. Check outside to see
that all vents exhaust freely and there are no obstructions. |
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| Fireplace The damper and vents must open easily.
Note if there are smoke stains above the opening - this is a sign of negative pressure or
an obstructed flue. There should be no cracks or other damage to the fireplace structure
itself. Gas fireplaces should be in proper working order. There should be no cracks in the
glass or any other damage to the unit. |
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| Kitchen Appliances If appliances come with the
house, they should work properly and be free of damage. |
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